Kwangde Peak Climbing

Trip Overview

The mountain extends further east from the Lumding Himal toward the massive Rolwaling Himal. The Kwangde Ri lies in the Khumbu Range of the Everest Region. It’s a challenging climbing peak with an average height of 6011 m. The northern approach to the peak is more challenging, although even the southern face is also a demanding one. The climbers are rewarded with the exciting views that extend across the Khumbu, from Ama Dablam and Makalu in the East, to Everest and Cho Oyu and the Rolwaling peaks, to the northwest. It forms an impressive multi-summited ridge at the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in turn is part of Rolwaling Himal. The mountain stands above the Bhote Koshi River to the south-west of Namche Bazar. The northern part of the mountain forms an impressive barrier having several steep ridges to the north.

It’s glaciated southern flank is more aloof. It is hidden at the northern end of the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley bounded to the west by the tumbling glaciers of Karyolung (6,511m/21,361ft), Khartang (6,853m/22,484ft) and Numbur (6,959m/22,831ft). The Lumdring valley is rarely visited by trekkers or expeditions. At the northern end of the valley the stream cascades down a natural rocky barrier above which is a moraine-bound lake, the Tsho Og, at the snout of the Limding Glacier. North of the Tsho Og, itself hidden in a huge rocky cwm, is the massive Lumding Tsho Teng (5,151m/16,899ft).

All of the routes climbed to date on the Kwangde Peaks are difficult, none have proved suitable for commercial trekking peak expeditions. The routes on the North Face are particularly difficult and reflect recent developments in lightweight Himalayan climbing, with an emphasis on technical difficulty and a high degree of commitment. They have invariably been made by two climbers without support camps or fixed ropes, although in at least one case a subsequent ascent has seen a return to traditional siege style tactics with masses of fixed rope and camps. Even the routes on the South Face are difficult, although the climbing is more traditional in character.

The first ascent of Kwangde Lho was made by a Nepalese expedition in 1975 which was led by Kumar Khagdar and Bikram Shah. The actual summit was reached on 17 October by Lhakpa Tenzing. Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang and Sonam Hisi via the South Ridge.

Experienced climbers who are looking for rarely climbed and challenging small peak in the Himalayas will find this peak very attractive. Further Information to arrange a climb to this peak will be provided on request.